Tag Archives: vegetarian

Eggplant and potato gnocchi

Growing up I often ate potato gnocchi. My mamma made the best potato gnocchi and they were better than the ones that anyone else made. They melted in your mouth. It was always a special occasion when she made them as it was so much work – my sister and I would help by rolling them and curling them on a fork so that they would pick up more sugo when you were eating them. Lately I have been making gnocchi with different ingredients, such as with ricotta and last night I tried to make them with eggplant.

I love the taste of eggplants (also known as aubergine and called melanzane in italian). There are so many different shapes, sizes and colours – purple, black or stripy. They are very wet vegetables – in fact most recipes require that they are salted and drained prior to cooking (to allow the liquid to drain off). In last month’s Gourmet Traveller magazine (the Italian issue), there was a recipe for eggplant and potato gnocchi. It sounded delicious so I had to try – and I was intrigued by the taste and the concept.

I tried to followed the recipe in the magazine but I had to change it to get the consistency right – everything stuck to the bench when I was trying to incorporate the flour. The eggplant was so wet that I needed almost double flour to what the recipe called for. It ended up being a rather messy affair but it was absolutely worth the effort! The gnocchi were deliciously tender with a subtle taste of eggplant that made them a bit more complex than the regular potato ones. Mark and I ate them with burnt butter with crispy sage leaves and shavings of parmigiano. Serve this dish with a good pinot nero (otherwise called Pinot Noir). Buon appetito!

Eggplant and potato gnocchi
serves 4
500g Dutch cream potatoes (2 large)
450g eggplant (1 large)
1 egg
225 – 250g plain flour
50g parmigiano, grated
salt
100g butter, unsalted
sage leaves, handful
Extra parmigiano, shaved, to serve

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees celsius. Cut your eggplant in half lengthways and score the cut surface in a criss-cross pattern. Place on a baking tray with the eggplant cut side up and cook for 40-50 minutes until the flesh is soft and can be scooped away from the skin with a spoon.

Wash the skin of the potatoes and place them in a pot of cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer with the lid on until the potato is cooked (about 40 minutes – test it with a fork). Pass the cooked potatoes through a potato ricer (remove the skin if it is not removed by the ricer) so they are finely mashed. Set the potato aside in a large mixing bowl. When the eggplant is cooked, remove it from the oven and spoon out the soft flesh and place it into a strainer. Press the eggplant to remove as much water as you can. There will be some harder bits left from where the top of the eggplant has cooked in the oven – I left this to add a bit of texture. Add the eggplant to the bowl with the potatoes. Wait for the vegetables to cool before proceeding.

Add an egg, the parmigiano and a good pinch of salt to the bowl of mashed cooked vegetables. Add about 100g of the flour to the mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until it is mixed in. Place half of the remaining flour on your work board (I have a stone kitchen bench so I worked directly on that) and place the vegetable mixture on top of this. Incorporate the flour on the bench into the mixture folding it onto itself. It will still be fairly wet.

Keep adding the flour bit by bit until it is in a large rough ball. Place the ball back into the same bowl. Taste the mixture and adjust for salt. Now you are ready to roll your gnocchi.

Take out a handful of the mixture and place it onto a floured surface. Make long thin rolls about 1 cm wide. Cut the rolls into 1 cm pieces with a sharp knife and place on a floured surface. Repeat with remaining mixture until you have made dozens of tiny gnocchi. Dust with a bit more flour if needed.

To cook, bring a large pot of water to the boil. Add the gnocchi one at a time to the boiling water and cook until they rise to the surface (2 or 3 minutes). You will need to cook the quantity of gnocchi in this recipe in two batches or use two pots of water. Remove the cooked gnocchi from the water with a slotted spoon and place on serving plates.

For the burnt sage butter, place the butter in a small frying pan on medium heat. When the butter has melted add the sage leaves. Keep swirling the ingredients of the pan around and remove from the heat after the butter starts bubbling and turning slightly brown (4 to 5 minutes). The sage leaves should be crispy by then. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the burnt butter onto the gnocchi making sure the sage leaves are evenly distributed between the plates. Scatter shaved parmigiano.

The gnocchi are all gone

My love affair with cheese – part 2 – ricotta gnocchi

Have you seen “Two Greedy Italians”on tv? I saw it on YouTube last year and now I am so happy that it is showing on SBS in Australia. I love the fact there are two old fellows arguing, laughing, cooking and eating their way through Italy. They speak English most of the time (Gennaro Contaldo with a kind of peculiar East London accent) and Italian sometimes. I wanted my mother to watch it as she loves cooking shows and I thought she would enjoy their humour. She watched it this week and today when I went to see her for lunch she said “I met Antonio the older one about ten years ago”. I almost fell off my chair – she had met one greedy italian! She had never told me about this before. I asked her to tell me the story…

She says she was walking down the street in Melbourne at a World’s Longest Lunch event with my father. Antonio Carluccio was walking past and stopped when he heard them speaking Italian. So they stopped to talk to the white haired chef. He introduced himself and they had a bit of a chat about being Italian in Australia and cooking. He struck my mother as quite the gentleman. She had never heard of him before that and…. now here he was on her tv screen.

On the first episode of the series, Gennaro had made some beautiful ricotta dumplings that his mother used to make. They were a bit like potato gnocchi but a whole lot simpler. Mamma had never seen them made quite like that and was keen to try them. So in honor of my mother’s brush with Italo-English cooking fame and one greedy Italian, I made the ricotta gnocchi (or dumplings).

Making ricotta gnocchi

I can’t resist anything with ricotta in it – fresh, creamy ricotta that you buy from a delicatessen where they have just cut a fresh piece. It melts in your mouth. On the show, Gennaro mixes the ingredients by hand – ricotta, egg yolks and then finally adds the flour. I love the fact that they are almost like potato gnocchi – but without needing to cook potatoes. All you need to do is get the ricotta out of the fridge. I varied the ratio of flour to ricotta (more ricotta, less flour) and made a softer version. I served the gnocchi with a tomato and basil sauce, with lots of garlic and a hint of chilli. Fantastic (and oh so easy).

Ricotta gnocchi*
serves 2
220g ricotta
3 egg yolks
pinch salt
pinch nutmeg
190g flour
Mix the first 4 ingredients in a bowl with a wooden spoon (or your hands). Add the flour and fold it into the mixture until a dough forms. Roll into a log, cut off sections and cut into bite size pieces.

Boil a large pot of water. Add the gnocchi to the boiling water. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes (taste them to make sure you are happy with the consistency when they are cooked; cook a bit longer if they are too chewy). Remove with a slotted spoon. Serve with your favourite pasta sauce and sprinkle lots of parmigiano.

Buon appetito!

* recipe from Gennaro Contaldo

Mi padron, mio amore

Heirloom carrots

I love Melbourne for many reasons. One of them is the weekly community farmer’s markets that are held in various spots close to the city. This weekend the monthly Slow Food Market was held at the Abbottsford Convent.

Garlic plaits at the market

The founder of the slow food movement is an Italian, Carlo Petrini, who aspired to counteract the fast pace of life and ensure old traditions relating to food and its provenance were not lost. There is a slow food convivium in Melbourne, which has close ties to the Slow Food Market at the Convent. The Slow Food Market is probably my favourite of all the community markets and it is in a gorgeous location. Click here to read more about the community farmer’s markets in Melbourne.

Bullseye beetroot

It was a hot windy day yesterday at the market. There were probably fewer farmers and food maker stalls than usual, however the array of late summer fruit and vegetables from local farmers was still amazing. As usual, I managed to buy more vegetables than my husband Mark and I could ever eat! I can’t resist beautiful looking vegetables. I bought colourful heirloom carrots, grandfather tomatoes (each weighing over half a kilo!), a box containing 3 different types of plums, “Bullseye” beetroot (an heirloom variety originally from the Italian town of Chioggia on the Adriatic coast and known as Italian Chioggia) and a gorgeous string of garlic. My father used to make strings (or plaits) with his garlic, and give my sister and I one each one for Christmas presents. You might think a plait of garlic is not a great present, but this was no ordinary garlic; it was fragrant, purple headed garlic that had been organically fertilised all winter. There were about 20 heads on each plait, enough to see me through most of winter. I hope the garlic I bought today at the Slow Food Market is almost as good as my father’s.

Little green padrons

My favourite and most prized market purchase today was my padron peppers. These green babies are undoubtably my new found love (mio amore). I discovered these gorgeous little peppers at last month’s Slow Food Market. The man I bought them from suggested a simple way to cook them – in a sandwich press.  I look his advice and they were so tasty and so easy.  I looked around the Victoria Market a few times for them but couldn’t find any – most vendors didn’t seem to know what I was talking about. So I was ecstatic to find them again at the Slow Food Market. Padrons are originally from north west Spain and every tenth pepper is fiery hot. They are delicious and super easy to cook.  I am sure you will love them and you will probably be fighting me off at the local farmer’s market for padrons in the next few weeks!

Here is the recipe that the man at the Slow Food Market gave me.

Padron peppers
padron peppers
olive oil
sea salt
I had bought around 20 padrons so that we could eat 10 each and if averages are correct, get one fiery one each. To cook the Padron peppers, turn on your sandwich press (if you don’t have one, use a small non stick fry pan). When the plate/pan is warm, throw in the washed padron peppers. Cook for a few minutes until soft. If using a pan, shake it to turn them over so they brown slightly on all sides and soften. Place on a warmed serving plate. Drizzle with good quality olive oil and scatter some sea salt. You can use aioli as a dipping sauce if you like (click here for aioli recipe), or just serve them on their own. Make sure you have a glass of chilled Prosecco or a nice cold beer, like Birra Peroni with them (this way you can cool your mouth if you get a fiery one – I actually got 4 out of the ten I ate!).