Tag Archives: prosciutto

Cured meat heaven in Padova – Sotto il Salone

Cured meats are part of Italian culture. Italians call them affettati (cold cuts) and they are purchased in a salumeria, which is an italian delicatessen specializing in cured meats. That said, local large chain supermarkets also have an extraordinary array of cured meat products in comparison to Australia. You will also find them at local street markets made by local farmers.

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When I was in Padova in the Veneto region, I found an artisanal delicatessen inside the Palazzo della Ragione. This multi-level building dates back to the 12th century and had a civic function on its upper floor and food vendors on the ground floor.

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On either side of this ancient building are piazzas – Piazza delle Erbe (that traditionally sold vegetables) on one side and Piazza Della Frutta (that sold fruit) on the other. The ground floor still has food vendors as well as a number of bars and it is known as Sotto il Salone (under the salon). The piazzas also still serve as fresh produce markets as well as a more general market. I found the incredible Salumeria A. Borsetto on the ground floor of the palazzo (link is in Italian).

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The owner, Rino, was literally surrounded by every type of cured meat you can imagine. Prosciutto, salame, culatella, speck, bresaola from a huge variety of animals – beef, pork, lamb, duck, venison – from many parts of Italy. He kindly allowed me to taste a number of products – though clearly due to the number, I couldn’t try many. I was particularly impressed with la carne secca del Friuli (dried beef from the Friuli region in northeast Italy) which he told me is cured with many alpine herbs for 20 days and lightly smoked. It was delicious as was the prosciutto di cervo (venison).

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Each of the cured meats has a lovely hand written label. Some even have suggestions on how it should be served. For example (translated into English)

Carne secca del Friuli
(Dried beef from Friuli)
Prized cut of round eye from alpine beef; aged and lightly smoked with precious wood chips. Excellent to eat as a single dish with slivers of smoked ricotta and a dash of good quality oil.

Puro salame bovino (Pure beef salami)
A specialty. Excellent with a dash of olive oil, fresh onion and butter on toasted bread.

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Rino was very friendly and more than happy to smile for photos. You can find his fantastic salumeria at the address below.

Salumeria A. Borsetto
Sotto il Salone, 41
35100 Padova

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And whilst you are in Padova, you might as well take some time to visit this historic university town which is filled with portici (arches). It really is beautiful. Be sure to see La chiesa di Sant’Antonio (St Anthony’s church – he is the patron saint) and vist the Cappella degli Scrovegni, a private chapel with incredibly preserved frescoes.

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Breakfast part 1, Melbourne – ricotta hotcakes with prosciutto and orange maple syrup

I am heading to Italy in a couple of days and look forward to enjoying breakfast on the move Italian style – cornetto filled with jam and a short macchiato standing at the bar. I will also be exploring what the average Italian eats for breakfast and sharing it with you. They don’t know it yet but several of my relatives will be featuring on this blog from the comforts of their homes in Veneto and Friuli sharing their breakfast routines.

But before leaving I plan to eat my favourite Italian breakfast, which I know I won’t find over there. It is hardly traditional but there have to be advantages to being an Italian living in Melbourne. I can add my local spin on Italian ingredients. Regular readers will know of my love for ricotta by the recipes I have posted – from ricotta gnocchi to my mamma Livia’s ricotta cake. My Italian breakfast uses my favourite ricotta to make hot cakes. They are based on a Nigella Lawson recipe, which I have modified – light and fluffy with a hint of orange zing. I top these with salty crisp prosciutto after drowning the hotcakes in orange maple syrup. Sounds like a strange combination?! Yes – but the sweet, salty and citrus combination works really with the hotcakes. Mark and I share these hotcake stacks for long lazy Sunday breakfasts when we are planning on a day at home. It might not be very traditional, but this is what this Italian eats for a special breakfast.

See you in Italy!!

Ricotta hotcakes with crispy prosciutto and orange maple syrup
Serves 4
Syrup:
1/2 cup orange juice, freshly squeezed
1 cup caster sugar
1 stick cinnamon
1 orange, peel separated with vegetable peeler, no pith
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
Hotcakes:
250g ricotta
125ml milk
2 eggs, separated
grated rind 1/2 orange
100g plain flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon caster sugar
pinch salt
butter, unsalted, for cooking the hotcakes
4 slices prosciutto

For the syrup, combine orange juice and sugar with the cinnamon stick and orange peel in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until bubbling then reduce heat and simmer for about 10 minutes until thick and syrupy. Strain and stir in maple syrup. Set aside while you make the hotcakes.

To make the crispy prosciutto (I use italian Prosciutto San Daniele but you can substitute another good quality Italian prosciutto), place whole slices under a medium grill and cook until the prosciutto starts curling up and drying out (about a minute depending on the heat of your grill). Turn over and grill briefly. Watch it the whole time to make sure it does not burn. Set aside.

For the hotcakes – combine the ricotta, milk and egg yolks in a bowl. Mix in the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Once combined, add the orange zest. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold the egg whites gently into the hotcake mixture. Melt a tiny knob of butter in a small non-stick fry pan. Ladle some hotcake mixture into the warmed pan. Cook on medium heat, flipping the hotcake over after a minute – it should be golden. Cook the other side for another minute. Keep cooked hotcakes warm on a warmed plate covered in foil (I place mine in the oven at very low heat) whilst you cook the rest. Use a bit more butter each time you cook a fresh hotcake. I make 8 small hotcakes – two per person.

To serve, place hotcakes on warmed individual plates, spoon the maple orange sauce over them and top with crispy prosciutto. Serve with a glass of blood orange juice or coffee for breakfast.

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My beautiful black terrine

I fell in love with it: beautiful, heavy, black, timeless. I had to buy my terrine mould as soon as I set eyes on it. Even the huge price tag did not deter me. I know it is French. Terrine is French. There is no way around it. But France is right next to Italy and in fact, part of what is now France was once Italy. The French Riviera town of Nice was once called Nizza and Giuseppe Garibaldi was born there. Garibaldi is partly responsible for the unification of Italy (though his home town became French as a result). So I did have Italy on my mind when I bought this mould. Wrapping a terrine in prosciutto even makes it a bit Italian! The word terrine is used to mean both the mould and the actual food. It is a rustic dish that was around in Roman times (maybe Julius Caesar tasted it when he spent all those years in Gaul – conquering, plundering, looting, enslaving…and eating terrine) and it is traditionally made mainly of pork. It may also be made with chicken, seafood or vegetables. It is a pretty clever way of assembling and compacting ingredients that may then be eaten cold or at room temperature. It lasts for days and looks beautiful when it is sliced. It is one of those dishes that looks terribly difficult but it isn’t. My favourite terrine is made with chicken and pork. Although it takes a bit of time to assemble, the result is well worth it. It contains pistachios, asparagus, spinach and is wrapped in prosciutto. The first time I made it I put in garlic that I had grown on my terrace, which made it pretty special. The colours and textures in it make it a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. It you don’t have a terrine mould, you can always use a cake loaf pan of similar dimensions to mine (30 x 10 x 7cm). You will need to make this a day before you need it. You can serve it with a mustard or relish – I made a red capsicum relish to go with it, which complements the flavour of the terrine as well as the colour.

Chicken and pork terrine*
Preheat oven to 180 degrees
3 golden shallots, peeled and finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
100g chicken livers, washed and chopped
1 tablespoon brandy
25g butter
400g chicken thighs, skin off and roughly chopped
400g chicken breast, skin off and cut into 1cm dice
175g pork, minced
1 cup pistachio nuts, peeled and unsalted
1 cup fresh small leaf spinach, roughly chopped
1 cup white bread crumbs (made from day old bread), soaked in 2 tablespoons of milk
1 table spoon of green peppercorns
zest of 2 medium to large lemons
4 sage leaves, finely chopped salt and pepper to taste (I used one teaspoon)
1 egg, beaten
7 asparagus spears, washed and woody ends removed
12 thin slices of prosciutto (try to buy prosciutto towards the centre of the leg so that you get nice long strips with which to wrap the terrine) – leave the fat around the edges

Lining the terrine mould with prosciutto

Melt the butter in a frypan and add the garlic and shallots. Cook until starting to soften then add the chicken livers and the brandy. Cook for a few minutes until the liquid evaporates a bit and place in a large bowl. Add the chicken, pork, nuts, spinach, bread crumbs, lemon zest, peppercorns, sage, egg, salt and pepper to the bowl. I like to soak the bread in a bit of milk to make the terrine really moist. Stir well with a large wooden spoon or with your hands.

Asparagus spears in the terrine

Line the terrine mould with baking paper so that enough hangs over the edges to wrap the terrine (an excess is good), then line with the slices of prosciutto. They should be overlapping slightly and hanging over the edge of the mould. Place half the mixture in the terrine mould and pat down with the back of a spoon to flatten. Arrange the asparagus spears so that they are side by side. Place the rest of the mixture on top and smooth with the back of a spoon.

Wrapping up the terrine before cooking

Wrap the overhanging prosciutto slices over the terrine filling so that it is encased by prosciutto. Wrap the overhanging baking paper around the prosciutto. You will need to cook this in the oven and in a bain marie (bagno maria in Italian or in a water bath in English). This means that the terrine mould sits in a tray that has water in it. You should put the tray half filled with water in the oven before you turn it on, so that the water is hot by the time you put the terrine in to cook. Make sure you don’t put too much water in so that it overflows when you put the terrine mould in it! The water should come half way up the sides of the terrine mould. It takes an hour to cook. You will know it is ready when it feels firm when you press in the centre with your finger. Allow the terrine to cool in the mould. Without removing the baking paper, place a weight along the length the terrine to compress it evenly (I used the heavy lid of my terrine mould but anything heavy like a few tins of tomatoes will do as long as the pressure is even along the length of the terrine). Place in the refrigerator overnight. To unmould, lift the terrine by the baking paper which you will have unwrapped from the top – you might need someone to help you – and slice with a sharp knife. Slices should be 1 – 2 cm thick, depending on how you like them. The capsicum relish has 2 large red capsicum sliced very thinly, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar (I used one that has raspberry through it), 2 tablespoons of caster sugar, a pinch of dried chilli flakes and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon. This is cooked altogether for at least 20 minutes in a small frypan. It is sweet and slightly sour and is perfect for the terrine (this easy relish is also nice with grilled or roast chicken). The beautiful photo of the terrine sliced ready to serve on a platter was taken by my niece who has a fabulous blog called Melbourne Gastronome.

*recipe adapted from Anna Gare