Tag Archives: Papa’

Silver beet and potato smash – a childhood recipe

Since my father passed away in March this year, my brother in law Chris has been holding the fort in what was my father’s vegetable garden. He has been planting all the vegetables and herbs that my father used to have, plus a few more varieties (broad beans, eggplant). In between his visits to my mother’s house, she has been watering and tending what was once solely my father’s domain. A strong memory for me is papa’ working in the garden, wearing his checked shirt and waving to all the neighbors who beeped their horns as they drove by.

A few months ago, I planted a punnet of rainbow chard that Chris had bought but not got around to planting. It felt quite strange working in dad’s garden. When he was unwell last year, he would sit on the terrace whilst I was picking parsley or rucola (rocket) to take home, watching me and say “prendi quanto che ti vol, questo xe el tuo giardin” (take as much as you want, this is your garden too). I have many memories of him proudly presenting the family with armfuls of tomatoes, radicchio, garlic and so much more. It felt very special for me to be planting those seedlings in his vegetable garden.

Well how they grew! This is in spite of the fact that Minna, the ginger cat took a liking them and alternated between trying to dig them up and lying on them. My mother concocted a way to keep Minna away – she surrounded the growing vegetables with thick slices of garlic. Well that seemed to do the trick for a few weeks at least until the rainbow chard could stand Minna’s feline assaults.

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So last week the time arrived to pick some leaves – I picked around ten of the largest outer leaves, took them home and put them in a glass jar filled with water on the kitchen bench. They were plump, green and gorgeous with red, yellow and creamy stems. I thought that it would be fitting to make a favorite childhood recipe with them, loved by papa’ – my mother’s erbete con le patate. We would eat this when I was growing up as a side dish with fish, chicken or steak. It is smashed potatoes with a bit of a green twist. I varied it from mamma‘s simple recipe by substituting silver beet with rainbow chard (they are very similar anyway), grated in some parmigiano cheese and some lemon zest at the end. It is still very simple and delicious, especially because the greens were so tasty, fresh and completely chemical free. I think papa’ would have loved them.

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Silver beet with smashed potatoes
serves 4 as a side dish
Silver beet (or rainbow chard), 1 bunch
3 potatoes, medium sized potatoes (I used Desiree’)
Garlic, one large clove, finely chopped
Parmigiano, one handful to taste, grated
Lemon zest, grated, to taste
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Extra virgin olive oil

Put the washed, whole potatoes in a pot of boiling water and cook until tender (around 30 minutes).

To prepare the silver beet – remove the spines, roughly chop the leaves and rinse them well, especially if it is not organic, to remove any chemical sprays. Plunge the leaves in the boiling water in which you are cooking the potatoes. Leave them in with the potatoes for a few minutes and then remove with tongs (or you can use a separate pot of boiling water – I am just being water conscious!). You will need to squeeze all the excess water really well from the drained leaves at this point. Set them aside.

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In the meantime, place the garlic in a medium sized frypan, cook on medium heat until fragrant and add the drained silver beet leaves. Cook until they have heated up and are coated with the olive oil and the garlic is mixed through. Add salt and pepper to taste. You should only need to cook the greens about 5 minutes before adding the potatoes. If the potatoes aren’t quite ready, just turn the heat on the frypan to very low and stir every now and then.

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Drain the cooked potatoes, peel and chop them into smallish pieces. It is fine is some of the potatoes become mashed and some pieces are soft potato cubes – this texture is what you are aiming for. Place the potatoes back in the medium sized saucepan, add the cooked silver beet and stir through so it is all mixed evenly. Add more salt and pepper if needed, the parmigiano and if you like, some lemon zest. Stir through and serve as a side dish with your favorite meat or fish. Drizzle on some more extra virgin olive oil if needed.

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Livia’s crostoli

Mamma’s crostoli are quite unlike those made by anyone else. They are lighter and crispier than others I have eaten and retain that freshness for weeks. I made crostoli for the first time last week for the celebration of the life of my father, who passed away on 4 March.

Crostoli are known by many other names (galani, sfrappole, bugie) in Italy, depending on what region of Italy you are in. They are also called angel’s wings and a version is cooked in other countries such as Hungary, Poland and the Ukraine. In Italy, they are a speciality of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Guilia, which is where my family is from. They are essentially sweet fried pastries twisted into ribbons or bows, hence they look like the wings of angels. Mamma remembers making them with her aunt during the the 1940s and she has perfected her recipe over the years. The major difference between my mother’s recipe and other recipes is that she adds no butter or lard to the dough. Every other recipe I have seen has one or the other or both. They also have a good slosh of grappa added and citrus zest. This results in a pastry that is light, crispy and not as rich as others (often resulting in greater quantities being eaten in one sitting!). My father used to say “uno tira l’altro” in Istrian dialect (meaning…one pulls another one in).

Mamma said that making them the way her zia ‘Rica did takes time. She would stretch the pastry by hand next to the fogoler (stove), the heat making it easier to get the pastry to be so thin that you could almost see through it. A far simpler way is to use a pasta making machine to stretch and thin the pastry. It is a bit like making sweet fried pasta.

Here is the recipe my mamma Livia gave me. Crostoli are perfect with a glass of sweet wine such as a moscato but are also lovely with a bubbly such as prosecco, which we had on the day of the celebration of my father’s life.

Livia’s Crostoli
makes about 50 crostoli
3 cups plain flour
4 tablespoons caster sugar (add a bit more if you like them sweeter)
pinch salt
2 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons grappa (or brandy or marsala)
finely grated zest of a large lemon (or an orange if you prefer)
1 tablespoon of white vinegar
1/2 cup water (more if needed)
vegetable oil for frying
icing sugar for dusting

You can mix the dough in a food processor or else by hand. I used the food processor for the inital stage. Put all the ingredients in the food processor and process until they are incorporated and a ball of dough forms. Empty this onto a floured surface and knead for a few minutes to ensure it is homogeneous and smooth. It should be like a rather hard pasta dough. Add more flour or water if needed to get the right consistency whilst you are kneading the dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes.

Cut off a quarter of the pastry ball, leaving the remainder in plastic wrap. Roll it flat with a rolling pin into a rectangular shape that will pass through the widest setting of a pasta machine. Roll through the machine, making it thinner at each roll, adding a bit more flour if it is sticks to the bench. It should be rolled through to the thinnest setting of your pasta machine three times. Cut each long strip with a fluted pastry cutter so you have 3 long strips. Cut each of the long strips into 8 to 10 cm pieces. Make an incision in the centre of each piece of dough and thread one end through the incision to make a bow (you don’t have to make the bow but it looks prettier). Repeat with the remaining dough. If you have someone helping you, one person can start cooking the crostoli whilst the other continues rolling and cutting.

To cook, heat vegetable oil in a heavy bottomed saucepan. As crostoli are deep fried, you need the oil to be 5 to 7 cm high in the saucepan. Once the oil is hot, drop in 3 or 4 crostoli (or more depending on the diameter of the saucepan). They take about 30 seconds to cook on each side so you need to work quickly and turn them as soon as the edges start to colour. They should be a sandy colour when cooked. If they are brown, you have burnt them. Once cooked on both sides, remove them with tongs and drain them on absorbent paper. If they take longer than 30 seconds on each side to cook, your oil is not hot enough and they will absorb too much oil. The secret of light crostoli is in the short time they take to cook.

You can eat them warm but I like them at room temperature. Before eating, sprinkle icing sugar over them. I don’t put the icing sugar on until I am ready to serve. I find that this ensures they remain crisp and last in an airtight container for weeks (though you will eat them sooner than that!) .


This photo was taken at my wedding, just under a year ago with my papa’, then aged 89.

Crostoli for my father

Today I made crostoli for the first time and I made them for my father. Crostoli are a delightfully light and sweet pastry to have during times of celebration. Mamma says she learnt to make them from her zia ‘Rica (aunt Enrica) at Gorgo del Monticano (in the Veneto region) during the war. Once my parents had retired, papa’ used to help mamma cut the pastry into beautiful bows before frying them. I remember them in the kitchen, working away together making crostoli.

Last Christmas he said to me “ma Paoletta, dove ti ga impara’ a cusinar cosi’ ben?” (Istrian dialect meaning “where did you learn to cook so well?”), knowing full well my mother taught me to cook. I wish I could hear him say those words again. I wish he could taste the crostoli I made. He would probably tell me to take off the icing sugar, he liked them plain. He would be happy though that I added a splash of grappa to the pastry, just enough lemon zest and that they are light and crisp.

He passed away a few days ago and tomorrow family and friends will be celebrating his wonderful 90 year life. I will bring the crostoli to share and I will think how very much I miss him.

Papa' cutting his prosciutto