Category Archives: Vegetarian

Potato gnocchi – gluten free

My beautiful daughter Tamara moved back home a few weeks ago after a rather nasty breakup with her boyfriend of one and a half years. I am overjoyed at having her home so we can watch girly movies, go shopping, get our nails done together and I can cook her wonderful home made meals. She tells me I am turning into her nonna by always having a meal ready for her when she gets home. She has been eating gluten-free for about a year (which has really helped her feel better) but it does present a bit of a challenge for my usual repertoire of home made pasta, cakes and her favorite gnocchi. Last week I was determined to make gluten-free gnocchi for her as it had been so long since she had been able to eat them (photo below is Tamara with her nonna Livia).

Tamara and her nonna

It was so much easier than I thought it would be! Armed with Blue Moon potatoes from the local Farmer’s Market, which have a bluish skin and are floury which makes them ideal for gnocchi, I trawled the Internet for information on what to use in place of regular plain flour. The were recipes with sweet rice flour, cornflour, gluten free bread flour, tapioca starch and a whole lot more. I liked the sound of a recipe using potato starch (or potato flour) in place of regular flour. I felt I couldn’t go wrong mixing potato with potato.

blue moon potatoes

The result was quite spectacular. I was worried that they would fall apart when boiled due to the lack of gluten, but it didn’t happen. They stayed together beautifully. They were a bit difficult to roll so it took a bit more time than it would normally take to prepare them. And you can’t roll them on the back of a fork to give them a little curl to hold the sauce in. However they were tender and like pillows of potatoes. Using regular plain flour to make gnocchi you run the risk of incorporating too much flour and them becoming chewy. This doesn’t happen when you mix potatoes with potato flour. We ate them covered in a rich tomato basil sauce. They were delicious and I am now a convert to the gluten free way for gnocchi…and Tamara is pretty happy too!

gnocchi with tomato and basil salsa

Gluten free potato gnocchi with a simple tomato basil sauce
serves 4
2-3 large Blue moon (or Desiree) potatoes – about 750g
1 cup potato starch
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
sauce:
1 tin of chopped peeled tomatoes
1/2 onion, peeled and whole
50g unsalted butter
Stem of fresh basil (or about 6 fresh leaves)
Pinch salt
Pinch sugar

Scrub the potatoes and place in a large saucepan, 3/4 filled with cold water. The potatoes should be whole and unpeeled. It is easier if they are a similar size so they all have the same approximate cooking times. Bring to the boil and then simmer until the potatoes are tender (start testing them at 20 – 30 minutes depending on how large they are) when prodded with a fork. Drain (removing one at a time if needed) and peel. Place the cooked potatoes through a potato ricer (or mash them finely) and spread out onto a chopping board. Allow to cool completely. In the meantime make the tomato sauce. Place all the ingredients in a smallish saucepan on medium to low heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, discarding the onion and basil before serving.

gnocchi all rolled

Make a well in the center of the cooled cooked potatoes. Break open the egg in the center of the potatoes and sprinkle over the cup of potato starch and salt. Mix with your hands until the mixture is uniform and make a large loaf shape. Cut off a slice of the potato mixture and cut into cubes that are approximately 5 or 6 cm across. Roll each cube between the palms of both hands until you form balls. Set aside and work on the rest of the potato loaf one slice at a time (covering the loaf with some plastic wrap to prevent it drying out). Cover the gnocchi you have rolled as you prepare them with a clean tea towel (again to prevent them from drying out).

all rolled - gnocchi

Boil a large pot of salted water. Gently drop the gnocchi in the water (don’t throw the lot in at once as you may overcrowd the pot, drop then in a handful at a time ) and cook them a few minutes until they rise to the surface. The potatoes are essentially already cooked so you will just need to heat the gnocchi through.

plate of gnocchi close

Lift the cooked gnocchi out of the water carefully with a slotted spoon, a few at a time, and place on warmed plates. Spoon over the prepared tomato sauce (or other favorite sauce) and scatter with grated parmigiano before serving.

Livia’s stuffed artichokes (carciofi ripieni)

When I was little, I believed my mother could do magic. She would turn potatoes into soft pillows called gnocchi, apples into a wonderful strudel and trim down artichokes with fat stalks into delightful stuffed artichokes with a cheesy garlicky filling. I couldn’t believe the wonders that came out of her kitchen.

3 artichokes

I do believe that artichokes (carciofi in Italian) are amazing. If picked early, you can trim the ends of the tiny carciofi, braise them with lots of garlic and eat them whole. You can stuff larger artichokes, removing the central hairy choke. And if you leave them on the plant, the hairy choke becomes the center of a magnificently strange flower. All rather wonderful really.

Artichoke flower

The way my mother transforms artichokes into a rather special dish takes some time, particularly trimming them. I took some photos of her last week as she trimmed three artichokes we were having for lunch. She worked very quickly, discarding the tough outer leaves and cutting the tips of leaves more towards the centre. She removed the tiny hairy choke in the center of the artichokes with a teaspoon. Ideally you want to buy artichokes that are too immature to have the choke, but this isn’t always possible.

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This video will show you all you want to know about preparing artichokes. The first minute will show you how to trim the outside and around the seven minute mark, you will see how to remove the hairy choke (in the video he removes it after steaming, but my mother removes it beforehand to make space for the stuffing to sit).

cut artichokes

Once each artichoke had been trimmed, and the choke removed, they are dropped into a large bowl of acidulated water (made that way by squeezing half a lemon into it) so that they don’t go brown. Just before stuffing, you prise apart the leaves to make space for the delicious eggy cheesy mixture around the center of the artichoke.

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Once cooked, the outer leaves are broken off with your fingers and the flesh on each artichoke leaf is pulled off with your teeth. It sounds strange if you have never seen it done. Here is a short video so you can see what it looks like to eat artichoke leaves. When you get to the inner leaves, you can eat them whole, using your knife and fork. The heart, just under the stuffing, is incredible. It is such a heavenly dish – worth every bit of the effort!

bottom of artichoke

Livia’s stuffed artichokes (Carciofi ripieni di Livia)
serves 3
3 large artichokes
1 lemon, squeezed into a large bowl of water
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
handful parsley leaves, finely chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
50 – 75g grated parmigiano cheese (how much you use depends on how large the eggs are)
zest of half a lemon
breadcrumbs (optional)
salt and pepper to taste
dash olive oil (for cooking)
1/3 cup white wine

Prepare the artichokes by removing the stem and the top third of the artichoke. Trim the tips of outer leaves with large scissors. Remove the small flesh-less central leaves hairy choke (if there is one) with a small teaspoon. Separate the outer leaves to make space for the stuffing. You can see the video – link above – to show you how this is done if this is your first time preparing artichokes. Place the prepared artichokes in acidulated water and set aside.

3 artichokes in saucepan

To make the stuffing, place the garlic, parsley, eggs, lemon zest, parmigiano (as much as you need to make the mixture thick – it should not be too runny) and salt and pepper to taste. You could also add a spoonful of breadcrumbs if the mixture is still a bit too runny. Add a dash of olive oil to the base of a medium sized saucepan. Drain the artichokes and prise apart the leaves to make space for the stuffing. Place them in the saucepan where they should all fit snugly in their upright position. Place the filling in the centre of the artichoke and between the more outer leaves (see photo above). Place the wine in the pan and then enough water so it comes half way up the artichoke. Cook on a low to medium heat for about an hour. When they are cooked, a fork should be able to pierce through the artichoke fairly easily ans the water should have almost completely evaporated.

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Ricotta and parsley ravioli – cooking with friends

I have known Lily since we went to high school together. She was the tall, glamorous dark haired Italian who I felt a strong connection to, even though we didn’t spend much time together when we were teenagers. We reconnected a few years ago via social media and we have explored our Italian heritage in the many fun things we have done since – from Italian film festival movies to book launches about italians migrating from Italy. Her mother came from Santa Barbara, near Trieste, and her father from Istria, like my father. Incredible that they travelled here on ships at different times, in search of new lives and that their youngest daughters, born only a few weeks apart, connected in distant Australia.

paola e Lily

We had talked about cooking together for ages and last weekend she finally came over to make pasta. Lily had never made pasta from scratch and I looked forward to teaching her. To make food with a friend is such a joy – creating tasty beautiful food with love, sharing stories and laughing. Lily has been to Italy twice, in 1972 and in 1980. Whilst chatting we realised that coincidentally it was exactly at the same time that I was there! The other coincidence was that both our mothers had the same model of Imperia pasta making machine, in a funky 1970s box (mine is the tattered one on the left)!

imperia pasta machine x2

Rather than making fettuccine, we decided on some simple ricotta and parsley ravioli. Lily watched me making the filling, not really measuring anything – which is the way my mother cooks – but the way hers did as well. We tasted the filling as we went along, adding lemon zest and nutmeg to give the filling a delightful lift. Rather than using a ravioli cutter, we cut the pasta sheets in half and then into rectangles to make square ravioli.

making ravioli

By now it was late afternoon – we’d been having such fun in the kitchen – about 3 hours worth. I put on some Italian tunes from the 1970s (Lucio Battisti) and we listened to him whilst we packed up and cooked a few ravioli to taste with a glass of wine. I made a simple burnt butter sauce with crispy sage leaves to go with the ravioli. It was delicate, light and perfect. A lovely way to end a cooking afternoon with my lovely paesana.

ricotta ravioli

Ricotta and parsley ravioli
Serves 6
To make the pasta:
4 large eggs
400g 00 flour
pinch salt
1/2 tablespoon of olive oil
For the filling:
350g fresh ricotta
1 large egg
75 – 100g parmigiano, grated
1/4 tsp nutmeg powder
grated rind of one lemon
1/2 bunch fresh parsely, leaves picked and finely chopped
salt and pepper to taste
For the sauce:
100g unsalted butter
24 fresh sage leaves
grated parmigiano to serve

For instructions on making pasta, click here or here. Make the filling whilst the pasta dough is resting and before rolling it out. To make the filling, simply mix together all the ingredients using a fork until the mixture is homogeneous. Adjust for salt and add pepper if you like. As there is a lot of pasta in this recipe, you should roll out a quarter of the pasta at a time, keeping the remainder wrapped in cling wrap. Make one batch of ravioli as per the instructions and then repeat.

To make the ravioli, place a teaspoon of filling on one half of a rectangle of pasta (our rectangles were about 5cm by 10 cm). Dip a finger in water, wetting the pasta around the filling. Now close the rectangle of pasta like a book so that the filling is enclosed, pressing well around the edges so the raviolo is sealed and there is no air trapped in the filling. Dust the pasta lightly with flour and place on the bench under a tea towel so the pasta does not dry out. Repeat with remaining pasta and filling.

To cook, heat a large pot of salted water until boiling and cook the ravioli for 5 to 7 minutes, until cooked. Whilst they are cooking, make the burnt butter by heating up the butter in a medium sized frypan, until the butter melts and add the sage leaves. Cook for a few minutes until it starts to turn brown. Drain the ravioli and spoon on the burnt butter sauce, decorating with a few crispy sage leaves. Some grated parmigiano is lovely on top of this as well.

making ravioli wearing pink gloves

Here is a link to a fantastic Lucio Battisti song…what a legend he was.

The voyage from Italy – and an italian potato salad

A Melbourne Food and Wine Festival event took me to Bonegilla last weekend for the first time. Readers who are not in Australia (and even those who are) may not have heard of this place, which is about 300km from Melbourne on the shores of the Hume Weir. But for over 170,000 predominantly European migrants in the period immediately after World War II, it was their first temporary home in Australia. My parents arrived there in May 1950 but their journey began many months before that in Italy.

mamma e papa

After World War II, my father, his family and many of his friends became war refugees (or displaced persons). The town of his birth, Pola, and the whole region in which it had been the capital, Istria, was no longer part of Italy. It was now Yugoslavia and my father and his family were among many who decided to take what they could carry with them and leave. He met my mother in a town Monfalcone, owning only a couple of sets of clothes, a portrait of himself in military uniform painted by a former girlfriend and a copy of La divina commedia by Dante. They married in 1948 however he wanted more from life than living with his in-laws in a small town and working in the local ship-building yards. His studies in Rome had been interrupted by the war in 1939 and he had dreams of going to America or Australia, both of which were accepting migrants from war torn Europe.

mamma peeling potatoes

So in late 1949 and part of 1950, they moved through a number of camps in Italy (Cinecitta’, Versa, Barletta and Bagnoli) waiting for a berth on a suitable ship to either the USA or Australia. Life in these camps was hard work. You were expected to contribute to the running of the camp (see the photo of my mother above, looking miserable peeling potatoes). There was a feeling of excitement and anticipation in the camps, which were full of people from countries like Poland, Romania, Russia and Latvia. My mother tells a story of my father disappearing for an hour one day and returning with a 30 piece set of solid silver cutlery. He had bought it from a Polish man (who was selling all his possessions) and paid 30,000 Italian lire for it, which was a large sum of money in those days. Papa’ reasoned that they would now have a beautiful set of cutlery to use in their new country – mamma just despaired – it wasn’t quite what she had in mind to buy with their precious money! He gave me the cutlery as a gift a few years ago – and it is indeed beautiful and even more special to me because of this story.

about to board the General Greely1

Finally they managed to secure two berths on the General Greely, an American ship departing on 18 April 1950 from Naples, headed for Australia as part of the Displaced Persons Resettlement Scheme. The ship had 1271 displaced persons (DPs) on board. The DPs had free travel to Australia in exchange for two years of work. They were not allowed to return to their country of origin for that period without repaying the government the cost of the journey, effectively acting as (as written on an information board at Bonegilla) an “effective and controllable pool of labour” for the Australian government to help reconstruct the post-war country. My father took the photo above from the camp in Naples and it shows rows of suitcases on the left and crowds of people on the right, waiting to board the ship that would take them to a new life full of hopes and dreams of a better world.

On the ship, men and women were in separate quarters which were like large dormitories. Blankets were hung between beds so that there was some privacy. The toilets had no doors so the ladies would go in pairs so that each would take turns to stand in front of the open cubicle. Meals were usually eaten standing up as there were not enough tables and chairs to accommodate the large number of passengers.

the General Greely

The DPs would have to show their identity papers prior to getting their meal. Several times, my mother’s identity card was whisked away when she presented it to receive a meal and personnel would take her to see one of the ship’s senior officers, who was over 60 years of age. Under the pretence of teaching mamma some English, he would joke around and then try to make a pass at her. She fiercely resisted, quickly excused herself and ran along the corridor and down the stairs to find my father to tell him. And he just laughed at her as he said that nothing had actually happened! Apparently the same officer tried this routine on other girls on the ship. What a rascal!#%!! However my mother, as you can see in the photo below taken on board the ship, was a 22 year old beauty so it comes as no surprise that officers were interested in her. And my father in the photo below cut a dashing figure in his cap on the deck.

bella mamma on the general greely

papa' on the general greely

After some 4 weeks on the ship at 4pm on 12 May 1950 they arrived at Station Pier in Melbourne. Mamma says that it had just stopped raining when they sailed into the port and there was a beautiful rainbow. She told my father that she thought they would be happy in Australia as the rainbow was a sign of good luck. Early the next morning at 8.30am and again at 9.30am, trains took off directly from Station Pier taking the 1,271 displaced persons on the long slow trip to a number of migrant camps, including the one at Bonegilla. The photo just below is of the Forum Theatre in Melbourne, taken by my father from the train taking him to Bonegilla. The photo after that is at the Bonegilla Migrant Experience museum. You can see that the train was indeed right next to the ship – no time for sightseeing for these migrant workers!

the forum 1950

photo from Bonegilla

In honour of my mother and the hundreds of potatoes she peeled at camps whilst waiting for a ship to take her from Italy to Australia, I am sharing with you a recipe for an Italian style potato salad. My father loved cold cooked potatoes in salad – though he just wanted potatoes, thinly sliced garlic, olive oil and vinegar in his! I have jazzed it up a bit and it is something my husband and I often have on a Sunday night in the warmer months.

Next blog post: Arriving in Bonegilla (and facing the reality of food and cooking in Australia in 1950).

italian potato salad landscape

Potato Salad
patate in insalata
Serves 4 as an entree or side dish
750g small potatoes (I use Kipler), well scrubbed and chopped into pieces
15 – 20 cherry tomatoes, halved
Handful (approx 300g) of green beans, ends trimmed and halved if very long
2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
40g (approx) kalamata olives, pitted and halved
fresh basil for garnish
Dressing:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons basil pesto (recipe)
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar (or to taste)
Zest of one lemon
sea salt and black pepper to taste

Start by boiling the potatoes (unpeeled) in lightly salted water for 15 to 20 minutes or until fork tender. Let them cool. Steam or microwave beans until just tender. Plunge beans in chilled water when cooked so they stay green. Place cooled beans and potatoes in a salad bowl. Toss in the onions, olives, capers, tomatoes and mix with your hands.

To make the dressing, place the pesto, olive oil and vinegar in a clean jar. Put on the lid and shake until well incorporated. Add the dressing to the salad and toss gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. Grate on some lemon zest. Serve with a glass of pinot grigio as an entree or as a side dish for a main.

You could also add a tin of good quality tuna chunks in olive oil (like Calippo or Sirena), using that oil in the dressing instead of other oil. This will make the dish your entire meal!

square italian potato salad